Dinner was prosciutto-mushroom raviolis from Capitol at Jean-Talon market, with Louisiana sausage from the saucisserie at Atwater market, my Bolognese sauce and prosciutto-4-cheese crostini with sun-dried tomato.
I must say, it was quite good . . .
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
Ravioli with Bolognese, Sausages and Crostini
Dinner was prosciutto-mushroom raviolis from Capitol at Jean-Talon market, with Louisiana sausage from the saucisserie at Atwater market, my Bolognese sauce and prosciutto-4-cheese crostini with sun-dried tomato.
I must say, it was quite good . . .
Monday, March 30, 2009
Nick’s Mushroom Sauce with Truffle Oil
Ingredients
About 1 lb. fresh mushrooms: shiitake, pleurot, cremini or a combination, sliced
1 small onion, chopped finely
6 large cloves garlic, chopped finely
1 cup dry white wine
1 heaped tablespoon grainy Dijon mustard
1 cup veal demiglace sauce (available at the butcher’s) or make your own
Flour
Butter
Truffle oil
Italian parsley, chopped
Salt
Pepper
Sugar
Method
Heat about a tablespoon of butter in a nonstick saucepan. Sauté the onions on medium heat until translucent, about 7 minutes. Add garlic, sauté three minutes further. Add about 1/4 cup chopped parsley. Remove and set aside.
Add two tablespoons butter and about one tablespoon truffle oil to pan. Sauté mushrooms until they lose their liquid, about 10 minutes. Remove from pan. Keep separate from onion mixture.
Put about 2 heaping tablespoons of flour and about 2 tablespoons of butter in the hot pan. Stir until well combined and keep stirring until the mixture begins to turn slightly brown. Add the wine and, stirring continuously, reduce for about ten minutes. Add the demiglace sauce and keep stirring, perhaps ten minutes more. Add mustard.
Add the onion mixture and combine well. Pour hot sauce into a large measuring cup. Purée with a hand blender until smooth.
Pour back into pan and add mushrooms and two tablespoons butter. Mix thoroughly. Serve on steak, chicken, veal, or marsh turtle with sprig of parsley and deep-fried garlic chips to garnish.
Next project, when I have a spare 48 hours: make my own demi-glace.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Patate Cinque Formaggio, Prosciutto, Cipolla, Crema, Aglio e Mandorla alla Nicola
That would be Nick’s Five-cheese Scalloped Potatoes with Prosciutto, Onions, Cream and Garlic and Parmesan-Almond Crust. This is a dish of creamy goodness that goes well with red meat, chicken or marsh turtle — well, just about anything.
Needless to say, do not skimp on the fat. Do not use low-fat anything or you’ll make me come over there.
Ingredients
5-6 medium russet potatoes (new potatoes are too waxy and don’t have enough starch to give this recipe its creamy taste), peeled and in cold water
1 medium white or red onion, sliced thinly
5-10 medium cloves garlic, chopped finely
10-15 very thin slices prosciutto
3/4 cup crème fraîche, or 1/2 cup crème fraîche mixed with 1/3 cup 2% milk
1 cup each grated aged Dutch Gouda, aged Asiago, aged Cheddar and a good Gruyère
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
3/4 cup bread crumbs
1/2 cup ground almonds
Parsley
Freshly-ground black pepper
Method
The best way to slice the potatoes is with a mandoline. I like to give them a ripple cut; it’s easy if you have a good mandoline (the tip of my middle finger does not agree with that statement, however).
If not, have all the ingredients at hand. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Mix the bread-crumb-almond mixture: bread crumbs, parmesan, ground almonds and some finely chopped or dried parsley and some ground pepper.
Mix the chopped garlic with the four cheeses and some black pepper and parsley and combine thoroughly.
Grease the bottom of a 14 x 10 Pyrex baking dish or some similar-sized baking dish with butter.
Start cutting the potatoes or use the mandoline. Each slice should ideally be about 1/5 of an inch thick, or about 4 millimeters. Smaller or larger is not important, but try to keep them uniform.
As you finish the first potato, lay down each slice in the bottom of the baking dish so that they’re all slightly overlapping until you’ve covered the bottom of the baking pan. Lay on top three or so slices of the prosciutto. Depending on how many slices you have, be sparse or go wild.
Sprinkle a handful or so of onions on top, distributing evenly. Add some of the cheese mixture and distribute evenly. Drizzle about 1/4 cup of the cream over the potato-cheese-onion mixture.
Repeat the previous steps exactly in another layer. Depending on how many potatoes and/or cheese you have left, repeat until depleted, but you want to end up with the top layer completely covered by potatoes. If there is no more prosciutto, skip it; ditto for the onions. It’s best if you end up with a layer of the four cheeses on top of the potatoes.
Now sprinkle the top of the potatoes/cheese with the parmesan-bread crumb mixture in an even layer until gone.
Lower oven to 350 and bake one hour uncovered, checking frequently that the bread crumb topping is not getting too brown. Cover with a top or aluminum foil and bake another hour, checking from time to time. The parmesan-breadcrumb top should be a fairly deep brown; now carefully broil the top on 500 degrees, uncovered, for about three or four minutes, making sure not to burn.
Let cool slightly and serve. Reheats in microwave like a charm.
Note: if the potatoes are still underdone at this point, cover, increase heat to 450 and bake 30 - 60 minutes more. It will be worth it!
Needless to say, do not skimp on the fat. Do not use low-fat anything or you’ll make me come over there.
Ingredients
5-6 medium russet potatoes (new potatoes are too waxy and don’t have enough starch to give this recipe its creamy taste), peeled and in cold water
1 medium white or red onion, sliced thinly
5-10 medium cloves garlic, chopped finely
10-15 very thin slices prosciutto
3/4 cup crème fraîche, or 1/2 cup crème fraîche mixed with 1/3 cup 2% milk
1 cup each grated aged Dutch Gouda, aged Asiago, aged Cheddar and a good Gruyère
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
3/4 cup bread crumbs
1/2 cup ground almonds
Parsley
Freshly-ground black pepper
Method
The best way to slice the potatoes is with a mandoline. I like to give them a ripple cut; it’s easy if you have a good mandoline (the tip of my middle finger does not agree with that statement, however).
If not, have all the ingredients at hand. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Mix the bread-crumb-almond mixture: bread crumbs, parmesan, ground almonds and some finely chopped or dried parsley and some ground pepper.
Mix the chopped garlic with the four cheeses and some black pepper and parsley and combine thoroughly.
Grease the bottom of a 14 x 10 Pyrex baking dish or some similar-sized baking dish with butter.
Start cutting the potatoes or use the mandoline. Each slice should ideally be about 1/5 of an inch thick, or about 4 millimeters. Smaller or larger is not important, but try to keep them uniform.
As you finish the first potato, lay down each slice in the bottom of the baking dish so that they’re all slightly overlapping until you’ve covered the bottom of the baking pan. Lay on top three or so slices of the prosciutto. Depending on how many slices you have, be sparse or go wild.
Sprinkle a handful or so of onions on top, distributing evenly. Add some of the cheese mixture and distribute evenly. Drizzle about 1/4 cup of the cream over the potato-cheese-onion mixture.
Repeat the previous steps exactly in another layer. Depending on how many potatoes and/or cheese you have left, repeat until depleted, but you want to end up with the top layer completely covered by potatoes. If there is no more prosciutto, skip it; ditto for the onions. It’s best if you end up with a layer of the four cheeses on top of the potatoes.
Now sprinkle the top of the potatoes/cheese with the parmesan-bread crumb mixture in an even layer until gone.
Lower oven to 350 and bake one hour uncovered, checking frequently that the bread crumb topping is not getting too brown. Cover with a top or aluminum foil and bake another hour, checking from time to time. The parmesan-breadcrumb top should be a fairly deep brown; now carefully broil the top on 500 degrees, uncovered, for about three or four minutes, making sure not to burn.
Let cool slightly and serve. Reheats in microwave like a charm.
Note: if the potatoes are still underdone at this point, cover, increase heat to 450 and bake 30 - 60 minutes more. It will be worth it!
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Nick's Meet Sauce
. . . because this is what YOU should make on the first date. The classic Bolognese, made only the way a true mafioso would make it, know what I'm sayin? No fancy stuff, chop chop early, put it inna pan, wait three hours, put on your Sunday best, and wait for the doorbell to ring.
Nick's Bolognese
Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
3/4 cup finely chopped carrot
3/4 cup finely chopped celery
3/4 cup finely chopped red pepper
4 tablespoons minced garlic
Salt
Cracked black pepper
Sugar
About two cups of shiitake, pleurot or porcini mushrooms, sliced
1/2 lb. each beef stew meat (cubes), veal cubes (if you can get them) and pork, in each case, no particular cut, ground in your nice grinder, or bought pre-ground
1/2 cup milk (low-fat is okay, we'll make up for it)
1/2 cup crème fraîche (see?)
1 cup dry white wine
1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, puréed with a hand blender (or a vacuum cleaner, whichever you prefer)
Fresh basil leaves
Method
Heat the butter in a large pan, Le Creuset if you have it. If not, a large nonstick skillet is acceptable. Make sure it has a cover. Sauté the mirepoix (onions/carrots/celery/red pepper) on medium heat until softened but not brown, about ten minutes.
Add the garlic, sauté another five minutes, stirring often.
Add the meat and separate with wooden spatula until thoroughly broken up. When meat is no longer pink, add milk and cream. Stir to combine. Cook until the liquid has almost disappeared, 15-20 minutes, stirring often; add the wine and mushrooms and repeat until the liquid has reduced, again, about 15-20 minutes.
Add the puréed tomatoes, stir to combine. Set stove on lowest possible setting, so that the occasional bubble is seen and, with lid partially on, simmer for approximately three hours, stirring occasionally.
At any point during these three hours, add the salt, sugar and pepper, tasting constantly. You want a nice balance of sweet and salty.
If it ends up being too dry, add a bit of water or chicken broth. Garnish with basil leaves. Can be made ahead and refrigerated/frozen or served right away with pasta of choice.
Nick's Bolognese
Ingredients
3 tablespoons butter
3/4 cup finely chopped onion
3/4 cup finely chopped carrot
3/4 cup finely chopped celery
3/4 cup finely chopped red pepper
4 tablespoons minced garlic
Salt
Cracked black pepper
Sugar
About two cups of shiitake, pleurot or porcini mushrooms, sliced
1/2 lb. each beef stew meat (cubes), veal cubes (if you can get them) and pork, in each case, no particular cut, ground in your nice grinder, or bought pre-ground
1/2 cup milk (low-fat is okay, we'll make up for it)
1/2 cup crème fraîche (see?)
1 cup dry white wine
1 large can San Marzano tomatoes, puréed with a hand blender (or a vacuum cleaner, whichever you prefer)
Fresh basil leaves
Method
Heat the butter in a large pan, Le Creuset if you have it. If not, a large nonstick skillet is acceptable. Make sure it has a cover. Sauté the mirepoix (onions/carrots/celery/red pepper) on medium heat until softened but not brown, about ten minutes.
Add the garlic, sauté another five minutes, stirring often.
Add the meat and separate with wooden spatula until thoroughly broken up. When meat is no longer pink, add milk and cream. Stir to combine. Cook until the liquid has almost disappeared, 15-20 minutes, stirring often; add the wine and mushrooms and repeat until the liquid has reduced, again, about 15-20 minutes.
Add the puréed tomatoes, stir to combine. Set stove on lowest possible setting, so that the occasional bubble is seen and, with lid partially on, simmer for approximately three hours, stirring occasionally.
At any point during these three hours, add the salt, sugar and pepper, tasting constantly. You want a nice balance of sweet and salty.
If it ends up being too dry, add a bit of water or chicken broth. Garnish with basil leaves. Can be made ahead and refrigerated/frozen or served right away with pasta of choice.
A Knife Story, For a Change
Now that there are two choppers around here, it was obvious to me that we needed two good chef's knives. Mine is already good, so I ordered one on eBay, thinking, Well, mine is Damascus steel, this is Damascus steel (half the price!) so what could be wrong with that?
Lots, as it turned out. Ignoring the fact that it took 45 days to arrive (more on that later), I took it out of its "box" and immediately knew I'd never use it. It was extremely heavy, for one. It was badly balanced, for two. And it wasn't sharp.
My test for sharp is The Tomato Test. If, using no pressure, only the weight of the knife itself, the blade immediately penetrates the skin instead of just impressing a blunt line, the knife is sharp (try it with your knife and a tomato. I'd like to hear the results of your tests). This knife failed the Tomato Test.
Add to that, the first time I washed it, I was appalled to come back an hour later to see it merrily rusting away. I kid you not.
$101 down the drain. (When I tried to file a claim with PayPal they told me the claim time limit was 45 days. Guess what? $101 down the drain. Anyone want a rusty, dull never-used knife with a nice cedar handle? Mail me a stamped, self-addressed knife box).
So we decided to go with what we have, and in Brigitte's case it was a serviceable, no-name, very blunt chef's knife. It was nice enough, though, well balanced and from I could see, a nice blade.
I tried sharpening it with the stone but it didn't work. Hard steel. So we decided to take it in. Somewhere. But we didn't know where, so we tried a couple of key shops but no one sharpened knives.
One of them recommended a place on Van Horne called Paris. "They sharpen hockey skate blades."
I should have taken that as an ominous warning.
But we went there anyway, and I decided to take my precious Kasumi with me as well.
The young guy said "Sure, I can sharpen these." And he proceeded to grind them in some godawful grinding machine for a few minutes. "Eight dollars."
I got home, did the Tomato Test on both and was horrified. The Kasumi was useless, where when I took it in it easily passed the test. Brigitte's was still useless.
But all Knife stories have good endings, as we all know. My friend Barry Lazar recommended a place in Laval called Bertoldi's.
So we popped up there on this very sunny morning. It's extremely hard to find -- hidden in a warren of side streets off the 15 to the Laurentians, but they were very pleasant and said they could have them in an hour, so we buzzed off to Carrefour Laval.
(Side story: found a place there called Le Rouet, that was having an astonishing 95%-off sale. Imagine a nice set of pasta bowls for four, quality stuff, for $2.50. We bought four. They usually cost $25. Get your sweet peasant asses down there before they're all gone).
Anyway, back to Bertoldi's to find out that I owed them not $40, not $20, but $8.
I didn't even look at the knives. Just brought them home and did the Tomato Test.
I could shave with both of them (matter of fact I might, tomorrow -- my razor's getting a bit worn).
So I really enjoyed making a mirepoix for my Bolognese this afternoon -- an hour of untold bliss.
See? I told you it'd be a knife story.
UPDATE:
We've decided we're going to go up to Laval tomorrow and buy ten pasta sets. For $25. Got that? $25 for TEN PASTA SETS FOR FOUR PEOPLE PLUS A SERVING BOWL. I'm posting this late so YOU< MY DEAR PEASANTS, CAN'T GO BEFORE US AND BUY THEM OUT FIRST.
Lots, as it turned out. Ignoring the fact that it took 45 days to arrive (more on that later), I took it out of its "box" and immediately knew I'd never use it. It was extremely heavy, for one. It was badly balanced, for two. And it wasn't sharp.
My test for sharp is The Tomato Test. If, using no pressure, only the weight of the knife itself, the blade immediately penetrates the skin instead of just impressing a blunt line, the knife is sharp (try it with your knife and a tomato. I'd like to hear the results of your tests). This knife failed the Tomato Test.
Add to that, the first time I washed it, I was appalled to come back an hour later to see it merrily rusting away. I kid you not.
$101 down the drain. (When I tried to file a claim with PayPal they told me the claim time limit was 45 days. Guess what? $101 down the drain. Anyone want a rusty, dull never-used knife with a nice cedar handle? Mail me a stamped, self-addressed knife box).
So we decided to go with what we have, and in Brigitte's case it was a serviceable, no-name, very blunt chef's knife. It was nice enough, though, well balanced and from I could see, a nice blade.
I tried sharpening it with the stone but it didn't work. Hard steel. So we decided to take it in. Somewhere. But we didn't know where, so we tried a couple of key shops but no one sharpened knives.
One of them recommended a place on Van Horne called Paris. "They sharpen hockey skate blades."
I should have taken that as an ominous warning.
But we went there anyway, and I decided to take my precious Kasumi with me as well.
The young guy said "Sure, I can sharpen these." And he proceeded to grind them in some godawful grinding machine for a few minutes. "Eight dollars."
I got home, did the Tomato Test on both and was horrified. The Kasumi was useless, where when I took it in it easily passed the test. Brigitte's was still useless.
But all Knife stories have good endings, as we all know. My friend Barry Lazar recommended a place in Laval called Bertoldi's.
So we popped up there on this very sunny morning. It's extremely hard to find -- hidden in a warren of side streets off the 15 to the Laurentians, but they were very pleasant and said they could have them in an hour, so we buzzed off to Carrefour Laval.
(Side story: found a place there called Le Rouet, that was having an astonishing 95%-off sale. Imagine a nice set of pasta bowls for four, quality stuff, for $2.50. We bought four. They usually cost $25. Get your sweet peasant asses down there before they're all gone).
Anyway, back to Bertoldi's to find out that I owed them not $40, not $20, but $8.
I didn't even look at the knives. Just brought them home and did the Tomato Test.
I could shave with both of them (matter of fact I might, tomorrow -- my razor's getting a bit worn).
So I really enjoyed making a mirepoix for my Bolognese this afternoon -- an hour of untold bliss.
See? I told you it'd be a knife story.
UPDATE:
We've decided we're going to go up to Laval tomorrow and buy ten pasta sets. For $25. Got that? $25 for TEN PASTA SETS FOR FOUR PEOPLE PLUS A SERVING BOWL. I'm posting this late so YOU< MY DEAR PEASANTS, CAN'T GO BEFORE US AND BUY THEM OUT FIRST.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
The Roast Part Deux
Too oily to tell is my watchword, but hey, I'm blogging as I cook. But Brigitte seems to be of the opinion the the meat is just a fucked piece of meat. That happens. We're blasting the hell out of it at 500 degrees but apparently it just doesn't seem to be softening, and it's been 4 hours.
Now doing the mushroom sauce . . . at least that's my specialty. A few shiitakes, a few buttons, some garlic butter, a little white wine, some pan juices (hey, remember that, my earnest band of pupils?) maybe some flour and lots of butter and we have >FUCKING LIFTOFF> Houston.
Capiche?
Now doing the mushroom sauce . . . at least that's my specialty. A few shiitakes, a few buttons, some garlic butter, a little white wine, some pan juices (hey, remember that, my earnest band of pupils?) maybe some flour and lots of butter and we have >FUCKING LIFTOFF> Houston.
Capiche?
The Roast
God, everything seems to be a production around here. Brigitte was sneezing like a squirrel yesterday and then today I sneezed, like, literally, fifteen times in a row.
It was my plan to cook the pot roast, so indeed, I woke up out of an Ambien-induced sleep this morning and went to get all the vegetables at Exo Fruits and came back, but started sneezing shortly thereafter. So we both took Actifed. Mistake! We died as if being snowploughed by a team of meese. Woke up with a jerk at 4 and realised I had neglected to spice-rub the roast . . . Oh, the Humanity!
Anyway, long story short, got that done and the bastard is in the oven sitting on a bed of garlic cloves, celery and carrots (Brigitte told me in no uncertain terms: NO TOMATOES).
Cut new potatoes, halved them and sautéed them in garlic butter (of my own making, I'll have you know!) then did halved onions -- I forgot the pearl type, which I regret -- and then long green beans, which I did with a slight Indian touch of cumin seed and turmeric. Put all those creatures together in their own roasting pan and put them in with the roast on 400.
God knows how this will all turn out; it's all on the fly, McFly. Hopefully the beans will turn out browned and succulent, the potatoes soft yet not overdone, the meat absolutely falling apart on the-not-bone, and the shiitake and button-mushroom sauce I am planning will just make everything SING. (No pastis! Don't you admire my restraint?)
Ahh, I guess we'll find out. I may even take pictures of this potential disaster. At least I'll have a record for next time.
But just remember this one word, my precious peasants: pan-juices. THAT ALONE will save the day.
The sermon hath officially been delivered for this, the fourteenth day of our Weasel, 2009.
It was my plan to cook the pot roast, so indeed, I woke up out of an Ambien-induced sleep this morning and went to get all the vegetables at Exo Fruits and came back, but started sneezing shortly thereafter. So we both took Actifed. Mistake! We died as if being snowploughed by a team of meese. Woke up with a jerk at 4 and realised I had neglected to spice-rub the roast . . . Oh, the Humanity!
Anyway, long story short, got that done and the bastard is in the oven sitting on a bed of garlic cloves, celery and carrots (Brigitte told me in no uncertain terms: NO TOMATOES).
Cut new potatoes, halved them and sautéed them in garlic butter (of my own making, I'll have you know!) then did halved onions -- I forgot the pearl type, which I regret -- and then long green beans, which I did with a slight Indian touch of cumin seed and turmeric. Put all those creatures together in their own roasting pan and put them in with the roast on 400.
God knows how this will all turn out; it's all on the fly, McFly. Hopefully the beans will turn out browned and succulent, the potatoes soft yet not overdone, the meat absolutely falling apart on the-not-bone, and the shiitake and button-mushroom sauce I am planning will just make everything SING. (No pastis! Don't you admire my restraint?)
Ahh, I guess we'll find out. I may even take pictures of this potential disaster. At least I'll have a record for next time.
But just remember this one word, my precious peasants: pan-juices. THAT ALONE will save the day.
The sermon hath officially been delivered for this, the fourteenth day of our Weasel, 2009.
Pot Roast
Okay, I'm faced with yet another first. My Saturday cooking project involves around a 2 lb. "European Blade Roast".
From what I've gathered, this is called a pot roast. Maybe? Anyway, it's a less desirable cut that needs to be braised for several hours, probably in some kind of alcoholic liquid (how about scotch and coke?) with large vegetables. Okay, this I can do.
I thought I would look up some recipe for it but instead will ask you, the peasantry, for ideas, and if they are not forthcoming will get the servants to cook it.
But the sound of the words "Pot Roast" remind me of my mother and the abominations that came from her oven.
Perhaps some truffle oil could be involved? Some sherry and/or champagne? An exotic mushroom or two, just for the flavor? Tons of shallots and garlic and a roux gravy with the pan juices after, with tomato paste or maybe even roasted cherry tomatoes? Puréed with Italian parsely or even, as a touch of the exotic, mint?
Hmm. Fennel. I said I wanted to cook with fennel. Would that work here, or is this a more Irish-style deal? Earthy, salt-and-pepper stuff . . .
Hmm, could Italianate it with a ragù-type sauce, tomatoes, chicken broth, potatoes, basil . . .
C'mon, c'mon, HELP ME, pezzanovante, don't just stand there reading! The fate of my Saturday cooking project depends upon it and may affect generations to come. Ideas, IDEAS, people, let's come up with IDEAS.
I will hold each and every one of you personally responsible if it is not a success. And YOU KNOW THE VASTNESS OF THE REACH OF MY INESTIMABLE WRATH.
From what I've gathered, this is called a pot roast. Maybe? Anyway, it's a less desirable cut that needs to be braised for several hours, probably in some kind of alcoholic liquid (how about scotch and coke?) with large vegetables. Okay, this I can do.
I thought I would look up some recipe for it but instead will ask you, the peasantry, for ideas, and if they are not forthcoming will get the servants to cook it.
But the sound of the words "Pot Roast" remind me of my mother and the abominations that came from her oven.
Perhaps some truffle oil could be involved? Some sherry and/or champagne? An exotic mushroom or two, just for the flavor? Tons of shallots and garlic and a roux gravy with the pan juices after, with tomato paste or maybe even roasted cherry tomatoes? Puréed with Italian parsely or even, as a touch of the exotic, mint?
Hmm. Fennel. I said I wanted to cook with fennel. Would that work here, or is this a more Irish-style deal? Earthy, salt-and-pepper stuff . . .
Hmm, could Italianate it with a ragù-type sauce, tomatoes, chicken broth, potatoes, basil . . .
C'mon, c'mon, HELP ME, pezzanovante, don't just stand there reading! The fate of my Saturday cooking project depends upon it and may affect generations to come. Ideas, IDEAS, people, let's come up with IDEAS.
I will hold each and every one of you personally responsible if it is not a success. And YOU KNOW THE VASTNESS OF THE REACH OF MY INESTIMABLE WRATH.
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